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Climbing to the peak of LENIN in 2020
12.07.2020 - 12.09.2020

 

Climbing to the peak of LENIN in 2020. Expedition to Pamir (Osh, Kyrgyzstan)
12.07.2020 - 11.09.2020

The Ural Alpine Club (UBC) invites you to climb the seven-thousandth peak of Lenin (7134 m) on Pamir in July - August 2020.
In the program of the UPC: a throw from Osh to the clearing of Achik-Tash, acclimatization transitions, ascent to the top of Lenin's peak.
Climbing the seven-thousandth Peak of Lenin is included in the "Snow Leopard" program of Russia.
We do not have intermediaries, together with The Achik-Tash NUR, we lease land for the base camp for 3600 m (Onion glade) and 4400 m (first camp).

In the base camp at 3600 m (Onion glade) we have a yurt under the dining room, built showers, toilets and set up large tents with iron frames, with wooden pallet and mattresses, accommodation for 2 people. There's a connection! Three meals a day. There is always a car for 7 seats. At any moment you can go to Osh!

In the first camp (4400 m) only we have built two houses, one for cooks (for 2 people), the second for instructors and participants for 12 people! The houses are fully ready to stay! Tent - dining room, built shower, two stationary toilets. Light from the generator. There is an internet (paid).

The rest of the participants at 4400 m are housed by two people in large RedFox tents, standing on wooden pallet. There are mattresses in each tent.

Our 2019 sunrise report ermachek.ru/alpinizm/novosti/18102012.html 

The peak of Lenin (7134 m) - one of the highest peaks of Pamir - in complexity one of the simplest seven-thousanders and does not require special mountain training! For beginner high-rises - this is the most suitable option, to test yourself for the first time at altitude.



Our TOUR

1 tour     July 12 - July 31 (21 days)
2 tour     July 19 - August 07 (21 days)
3 tour     July 26 - August 14 (21 days)
4 tour     August 02 - August 21 (21 days)
5 tour     August 09 - August 28 (21 days)
6 tour     August 16 - September 04 (21 days)
7 tour     August 23 - September 11 (21 days)

Venue: Achik-Tash Camp (Osh, Kyrgyzstan)
Arrival of participants in Osh on Sunday
or on Monday, but fly to Osh before 8 a.m.
Moving to the Achik-Tash camp on Monday, departing at 11 a.m.
Days of ascent to Lenin Peak - 19 days (the whole program for 21 days)
Descent from the bases.camp to the meadow "Achik-Tash", the afternoon departure and arrival in the evening in Osh - Friday
Departure from Osh to Moscow, Novosibirsk, Yekaterinburg - on the night from Friday to Saturday or during the day and Saturday evening

The Standard program - a guide for 6 participants (living in the base and first camps in our stationary tents for 2 people, in high-rise in 3 local, 4 local tents) - 1400 $ (dollar).
Economy program - without a guide (living everywhere in their tents) - 800 $. (border, transport, hotel, 3 meals a day in the base and in the first camp at 4400 m, products at height)
Under the Economy Program, you will be able to use paid Additional services!

You can stay for another week (4 weeks in the mountains) and try again to climb with guides.
The surcharge will be 400 dollar (Standart)!
In this case, it is better not to buy a return ticket!

The climbing team at Lenin Peak
1. Ermacek Yuri - Yekaterinburg - mountaineering guide - MS (Snow Bars-2009" (Victory peak - 1992, 1999, 2006 , Khan-Tengri - 17 times, Lenin - 10 times, Korzhenevsky - 2008, 2009, Communism - 2009), "Golden piolet of France" for the pioneering Western Wall Makalu without oxygen (8475 m) - 1997, Annapurna - 1996, Lhodze-Middle to 8000 m, Everest - 2002, 2004, 2006, K-2 to 8000m - 2010)
2. Dvornik Victor - Alma-Ata - guide - mountaineering instructor - 1 st (Lenin - 4 times)
3. Kirzjailin Anatoly - Yekaterinburg - guide - mountaineering instructor - KMS (Lenin-2 times)
4. ForkulitsaVictor - Orsk - mountaineering instructor - 1st climbing class
5. Ermachek Oleg - Yekaterinburg - Assistant Guide - 2nd climbing class
6. Serhiy Statsenko - Bishkek - Team Chef - KMS Mountaineering



1 TOUR

Arrival in Osh July 12 (Sunday) morning, afternoon, evening or arrival July 13 (Monday) until 9 am
Climbing Lenin from July 14 (Tuesday) to July 30 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - July 31 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - August 1 (Saturday) or 02 August (Sunday)

Participants from July 12 to July 31 - 1 shift

Standard program
1. Romashov Ilya - Ufa (Elbrus)
2. Aleksey Elm - Ufa

Economy program
There is a prepayment
1. Savvin Alexey - Interrechensk (Lenin-17 with UBC)
No prepayment
2. Matveychuk Oleg - Eindhoven, Netherlands (Elbrus from the north, Mont Blanc)
3. Lenko Anton - Nizhny Tagil (Elbrus, Northern and Polar Urals)

Infa on arrival in Osh - 1 tour

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrival July 12 (Sunday) at 04.10
Matveychuk Oleg - back 02 August (Sunday) at 05.30

From Novosibirsk S-7 Siberia arrival July 12 (Sunday) at 16.45
Savvin Alexey - back August 01 (Saturday) at 17.45

2 TOUR

Arrival in Osh July 19 (Sunday) morning, afternoon, evening or arrival July 20 (Monday) until 9 am
Climbing Lenin from July 21 (Tuesday) to August 6 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - August 07 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - August 08 (Saturday) or August 09 (Sunday)

Participants from July 19 to August 07 - 2 tour

Standard - program
There is a prepayment
1. Kalinin Nikolai - Irkutsk (Elbrus, Munku-Sardyk, Beluha, 20 years in tourism)
No prepayment
2. Ilyin Nikolai - Chita (Elbrus, Munku-Sardyk, Beluha, Mont Blanc)
3. Maxim Chestnut - Yekaterinburg (Taganai, Beluga-18, Mont Blanc-19 with UBC)
4. Novolodsky Artem - Megion HMAO (Beluga-18, Mont Blanc-19, Taganai with UBC)
5. Andrey Badov - St. Petersburg (Belukha-18, Mont Blanc-19 with UBC, Elbrus-16, Kazbek-17)
6. Sirotin Maxim - Moscow - 3m (Dugoba-19, Taganai-19 with UBC)
7. Baibikov Igor - Saratov (alloys, Elbrus from east-19)
8. Polyusuk Alexander - Canada (Mont Blanc-12, Victoria-15, Rainier-17, Adams-19, Loluche-19)
9. Eshkol Natasha - Canada (Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, Kilimanjaro, Rainier, Aconcagua, Alpacayo, Khan Tengri, Elbrus, Kazbek)

Economy program
1.  

Infa on arrival - 2 tour

From Novosibirsk S-7 Siberia arrival July 19 (Sunday) at 16.45
- back August 08 (Saturday) at 17.45

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrival July 19 (Sunday) at 04.30
Baibikov Igor - back August 08 (Saturday) at 05.30

From Moscow (Domodedovo) S7-3259 Siberia arrival July 26 (Sunday) at 06.35
Kalinin Nikolai - back August 08 (Saturday) at 05.30

From Moscow (Kyrgyz Airlines) flight YK-966 arrival July 19 (Sunday) at 18.15
-- back August 08 (Saturday) at 07.45

From Yekaterinburg (Ural Airlines) arrival July 20 (Monday) at 03.35
Novolodsky Artem, Kashtanov Maxim - back August 08 (Saturday) at 08.30



3 TOUR

Arrival in Osh July 26 (Sunday) morning, afternoon, evening or arrival July 27 (Monday) until 9 am
Climbing Lenin from July 28 (Tuesday) to August 13 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - August 14 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - August 15 (Saturday) or August 16 (Sunday)
 
Participants from July 26 to August 14 - 3 tour

Standard program
There is a prepayment
1. Fokina Anna - Smolensk (Patagonia, Nepal, Elbrus-19)
2. Ozhigin Leonid - Irongorsk-Ilimsky (Taganai-18, Belukha-19 with UBC)
No prepayment
3. Koshelev Ivan - Yekaterinburg - 3rd class (Lenin-15 with UBC)
4. Lezhneva Maria - Yekaterinburg - 2nd category (Lenin-15 with UBC)
5. Peters Pavel - Krasnodar
6. Cana Rastislav - Sala, Slovakia (Lenin-18 with UBC)
7. Petrikova Alexsandra - Sala, Slovakia (Lenin-18 with UBC)

Economy program
1.  

Infa on arrival - 3 tour

From Yekaterinburg flight 2889 (Ural Airlines) arrive july 25 (Saturday)
Lezhnevmaria Maria, Koshelev Ivan - back August 16 (Sunday) Ural Airlines at 02.55

From Novosibirsk S-7 Siberia arrive july 26 (Sunday) at 4:45 p.m.
- back August 15 (Saturday) at 17.45

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrival July 26 (Sunday) at 04.10
- back August 15 (Saturday) at 05.30

From Moscow (Kyrgyz Airlines) flight YK-966 arrival July 26 (Sunday) at 18.15
-- back August 15 (Saturday) at 07.45

From Yekaterinburg (Kyrgyz Airlines) arrival july 26 (Sunday) at 18.15
- back August 15 (Saturday) at 08.30

4 TOUR

Arrival in Osh August 02 (Sunday) morning, afternoon, evening or arrival August 03 (Monday) to 9 am
Climbing Lenin from August 04 (Tuesday) to August 20 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - August 21 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - August 22 (Saturday) or August 23 (Sunday)

Participants from August 2 to August 21 - 4 shifts

Standard program
1. Syrkin Volodyamir - Novaya Kakhovka, Ukraine (Kilimanjaro-16, Kazbek-17, Elbrus-15,-18,-19)
2. Stankiewicz Dmitri - Gomel, Belarus (Lenin-15, Beluha-16, Taganai-18 with UBC, Elbrus-19)

Economy program
1. Kobzev Mikhail - Dzerzhinsk - 2nd (Taganai-17, Hibin-17, Dugoba-18, Dugoba-19, TyukSu-20 with UBC)
2. Lentyukov Savely - Moscow - 2nd (TyukSu-15,16,18, Dugoba-5 times with UBC)

Infa on arrival - 4 tour

From Moscow (Shukovsky) arrival 02 August (Sunday) at 05.40
Dmitri Stankevich - back

From Novosibirsk S-7 Siberia arrival 02 August (Sunday) at 16.45

From Yekaterinburg (Kyrgyz Airlines) arrival 02 August (Sunday) at 18.15
- back August 22 (Saturday) at 08.30

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrival 03 August (Monday) at 04.10
Syrkin Volodymyr - back August 22 (Saturday) at 05.30



5 TOUR
Arrival in Osh August 09 (Sunday) morning, afternoon, evening or arrival August 10 (Monday) until 9 am
Climbing Lenin from August 11 (Tuesday) to August 27 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - August 28 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - August 29 (Saturday) or August 30 (Sunday)

Participants from August 09 to August 28 - 5 shifts

Standard program
1. Klyus Yuri - Elbrus, Kazbek
2. Sidorov Kirill - (Lenin-18 with UBC)
3. Busch Danil - Hamburg, Germany - 3 (Mont Blanc-17, Beluha-18, Dugoba-18, Kazbek-19 with UBC)
4. Dmitry Kozlov - Novosibirsk - "Russian Mountaineer" badge (Belukha-17.19, Dugoba-18 with UBC)
5. Sinerkin Alexander - Ulyanovsk (Elbrus-16, Tian Shan-17, Beluha-18)

Economy program
1.

Infa on arrival - 5 tour

From Novosibirsk S-7 Siberia arrival 09 August (Sunday) at 16.45

Arrival August 09 (Sunday) at 18.15
- back August 29 (Saturday) at 08.30

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrival August 10 (Monday) at 04.10
- back August 29 (Saturday) at 05.30

6 TOUR

Arrival in Osh August 16 (Sunday) morning, afternoon, evening or arrival August 17 (Monday) until 9 am
Climbing Lenin from August 18 (Tuesday) to September 03 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - September 04 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - September 05 (Saturday) or September 6 (Sunday)

Participants from August 16 to September 04 - 6 shifts

Standard program

Economy program

Infa on arrival - 6 tour

From Novosibirsk S-7 Siberia arrive spring August 16 (Sunday) at 4:45 p.m.

Arrival August 16 (Sunday) at 18.15
- back September 05 (Saturday) at 08.30

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrival August 17 (Monday) at 04.10
- back 05 September (Saturday) at 05.30

7 TOUR

Arrival in Osh August 23 (Sunday) morning, afternoon, evening or arrival August 24 (Monday) until 9 am
Climbing Lenin from August 25 (Tuesday) to September 10 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - September 11 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - September 12 (Saturday) or September 13 (Sunday)

Participants from August 23 to September 11 - 7 shifts

Standard program
1.

Economy program
1.

Infa on arrival - 7 tour

From Novosibirsk S-7 Siberia arrive spring August 23 (Sunday) at 4:45 p.m.

Arrival August 23 (Sunday) at 18.15
- back September 12 (Saturday) at 08.30

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrival August 24 (Monday) at 04.10
- back September 12 (Saturday) at 05.30



Attention! Buy a ticket on your passport, a copy of which was sent to the border crossing!

Attention!
We will try to meet all participants at Osh airport, but not before Saturday!
As soon as your plane lands and you are brought to the airport, connect to free WI-FI, call me on The Vatsam or send a text message
Ermaczek Yuri on the cell phone 7-9617636737 (Beelin) or (my Kyrgyz number), the number will inform everyone a couple of days before the flight.
The car will immediately leave, to go to the airport 20 minutes.
While you pass the passport control, we will be close and will meet at the entrance to the airport building!
If your flight is delayed, please text me on The Wazat!

Climbing the peak of LENIN (7134 m). Program

Day 1 (Sunday) - Arrival of participants in Osh. Purchase of groceries.
Day 2 (Monday) - Moving from Osh to Camp Achik-Tash.
Day 3 - Day of Rest and Acclimatization
Day 4 - Going to base camp at 4400 m
Day 5 - Going out to the glacier, checking equipment
Day 6 - Let's go to the top of Yukhin (5100 m). Overnight.
Day 7 - Descent to base camp (4400 m).
Day 8 - Preparing for the exit, rest in the camp at 4400 m
Day 9 - 5400m climb and overnight
Day10 - 6100m and 5,400m downhill
Day11 - 4400m and 3500m in the afternoon
Day12 - Rest Day for 3500 m
Day13 - Going to the 4400m camp
Day14 - Preparation for exit and rest at 4400 m
Day 15 - Переход в лагерь на 5100 м
Day16 - Переход в лагерь на 6100 м
Day 17 - Climbing to the peak of LENIN and descending to the camp at 6100 m
Day 18 - Reserve Day for Climbing (4400m downhill)
Day 19 - 4400m base camp (3400m descent)
Day 20 (Friday) - Descent to Achik-Tash and departure to Osh.
Day 21 (Saturday) - Departure of participants

The cost of the climbing program on Lenin Peak includes:
- meeting at the airport
- hotel ( 2 nights)
- move (bus) - Osh - "Achik-Tash" and back
- 3 meals a day at the base camp at 3400 m (Achik-Tash) and in the first camp at 4400 m
- ordinary products on the ascent (tea, sugar, soups, noodles, cereals, kisel, bread)
- border pass clearance
- high-altitude guides - mountaineering instructor
Radio stations at each instructor's
- team equipment (ropes for passing glacier with cracks, gas cylinders)
- team pharmacy and pharmacy with each instructor
- accommodation on Achik-Tash and 4400 m in stationary tents, wooden flooring, mattresses (2 people)
- accommodation in established high-rise tents for 5400 m and 6100 m
- Certificate of successful ascent to the peak of LENIN

The price of climbing Lenin Peak does not include:
- air travel to Osh and back - hotel accommodation in Osh (hostel)
- food in Osh and on the way to Achik-Tasha and back
- high-altitude snack (curaga, raisins, nuts, chocolate, vaccum packing with cheese, sausage, stew, condensed milk)
- return trip to the airport
Medical costs and health insurance (optional)
- emergency costs (rescue work, helicopter flights, medicines and medical services at Osh hospital, registration of certificates and documents, repatriation)

Cis mountaineer's medical and transport insurance for climbing Lenin Peak

Medical transport insurance climber - do not issue, too large tariffs, for 20 days you have to pay each 200 dollars. and more, and no help from insurance companies.
There will be organized a mutual aid fund (instead of registration of medical insurance in the insurance company - each participant rents 200 dollars. and in the case of an emergency with one of the participants, he will be provided with help (delivery to the hospital, treatment and exchange of tickets, within this amount.
If the ascent will pass without an emergency, then 200 dollars return to the participant.

To apply for a border pass
Send your details or a copy of your passport
(deployed sheet where photo)
: name, name, middle name,
date and place of birth passport data : series and passport number, when and by whom issued to report your cell phone number.
Is there a climbing class or a mountain hiking experience?

Expedition members will be able to rent equipment :

write in advance and inform that you will rent, the amount of equipment is limited. The cost of rent from 5 dollar to 100 dollar per item - for the whole period of fees.


carbine – 5 dollar (we need to go up the mountain - 3 carbines)
descent device (eight) – 5 dollar
jumar – 10 dollar
arbor insurance – 10 dollar
self-insurance – 5 dollar
WCSPS ice-cutting – 10 dollar
Icerub branded light -  15 dollar
ice cats – 15 dollar
Full set – 75 dollar

Karemat – 10 dollar
Mountain boots leather, plastic – 30 dollar (38.41- 42 – 43 - 44 sizes)
High-rise boots 41-42-43- size – 50 dollar
sleeping bag for -20 – 30 dollar
sleeping bag for -25 – 50 dollar

Throwing personal cargo of participants - our guides
From the base camp (4400 m) to Yukhin (5100 m) - for 1 kg – 5 dollar
From the base camp (4400m) to Camp-1 (5400m) - for 1 kg – 10 dollar
From Camp-1 (5400m) to Camp 2 (6100m) - for 1 kg – 15 dollar

Personal and special equipment for climbing Lenin's peak:

Special equipment:
- transportable baul or large backpack or bag - assault backpack (at least 50 liters)
- caremat polyuritanian or inflatable
- sleeping bag (down)
- cat climbing
- ice pick
- carbines (3 pieces)
- insurance system (conversation)
- self-insurance (or 3 meters of rope with a diameter of 9 mm)
- jumar (device for climbing on a rope)
- trigger (eight or Invar)
- helmet (climbing or ski) - you only need to cross the closed glacier from 4400 m to 5400 m
- gas burner and pan per liter
- sticks - telescopes - 1-2 pieces.

Main set:
- windproof suit (jacket and pants self-relief)
- down jacket or vest
- jacket and pants made of polar (flis or windblock)
- fleece shirt
- thermal underwear (pants and shirt)
- T-shirts - 2 pieces.
- cap from the sun
- cap (wool or polar)
- mittens -tops (leggings) down
- woolen mittens
- gloves warm from fleece, polar, wool
- socks xb - 4 pairs
- wool socks - 2 pairs
- balaclava (protection of the face from the wind)

Shoes:
- high-rise boots or plastic (leather) shoes (shoes or gamashs to them)
- trekking paints (for the city and the transition from Achik-Tasha to base camp)
- flip-flops for base camp

Additional equipment:
- sunglasses (high-altitude - ski)
- flashlight head-on and spare batteries to them
- sunscreen
- hygienic lipstick
- personal utensils (circle, spoon, bowl, knife)
- hygiene kit (towel, soap, toothbrush and paste)
- thermos with metal flask
Individual pharmacy

For more information, please visit:

www.ermachek.ru     mailbox         ermachek@mail.ru
Senior coach: Yermacek Yuri        Mob. 7-961-763-67-37 (Beeline)

Film about the ascent to LENIN



 

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